Asian-Style On My Mind

When I see an Oriental Chop Chop or a Secret Asian Man, I feel … weary. Because the language of the Asian salad is revealing of the dangers of bland, disembodied generalization: When you fail to see countries and cultures as discrete entities, what kind of consideration could you be expected to give to individual people?

–Bonnie Tsui, author of the essay, Why Is Asian Salad Still on the Menu?

The other night in Portland I ate a downright delicious thing called the Crispy Korean Fried Chicken Sandwich. Along with the pleasantly moist chicken with a crackly crust, the condiments hit all my favorite notes—creamy, tangy, savory, spicy—and the bun held the sandwich together without getting in the way of its filling. In the sandwich’s menu description there was a list of elements and they included, among other things, “Asian-style coleslaw.” What? 

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Portland Area Food Events, July 13-20

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Bastille Day is coming up. Vive la France!

Each week we will bring you a roundup of public food events in the Portland metro area. It’s not every single event that’s going on, but the ones in particular that catch our eye. Want to submit an event? Fill out this form. Listings curated by Meg Cotner.

Vive La France Bastille Day Dinner
Thursday, July 13, 5:30pm and 7:45pm
Bergerac Bistro, 5520 NE Woodstock, Portland

Bergerac Bistro Chef and Owner Joris Barbaray creates and serves a four-course summer menu just in time pour la Fête Nat. He’ll recreate some of his favorite French seasonal dishes from his hometown of Bergerac, France. $45 per person. To book your table, call 503-777-6399; credit card required to confirm booking.

La Ruta PDX: A Gastronomic Festival
Thursday, July 13-Sunday, July 16, various times
Multiple locations

Celebrate Spain for four days in “one of the most innovative cities in the United States,” our own Portland Oregon. Spanish and Portland-based chefs “will showcase Spanish products, purveyors, and specialty equipment” to encourage collaboration and cultural/intellectual exchange on the topic of food and in the form of dinners, tastings, seminars and a Feria & Trade Show. Ticket pricing varies. 

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I’m Volunteering at Feast Portland 2017

Last year when I moved to Portland, I came to know about Feast Portland embarrassingly (but understandably so) late in the game—pretty much all events were sold out by August, and I was still recovering from the intense move across the country, so attending was just too much to consider.

I’m pleased to say that I’ll be there this year, just not as an attendee—I’ll be a volunteer!

I’m pretty psyched, to say the least. I attended numerous food events as press over the years in NYC, and I saw how hard the volunteers and staff work to make each event a success. It’s my time to give back and be a volunteer myself. I think it’s going to be a great experience.

Farewell, Pono Soul Farm Kitchen

A Kushi oyster at Pono Soul Farm Kitchen in Portland, Oregon.
One Kusshi oyster from Puget Sound, sitting atop a bed of rock salt studded with whole spices, accompanied by a ponzu mignonette, chives, and a microgreen. It was plump and meaty, and tasted almost sweet. My favorite oyster to date.

Pono Soul Farm Kitchen, I’ll Miss You.

On June 23 I read the news that one of my neighborhood restaurants, Pono Soul Farm Kitchen, will close on July 8, 2017.  I’ve read three reports on the impending shuttering—from Eater, The Oregonian, and Portland Food and Drink—and none of them indicate the reasons why, not even a touch of speculation. Eater quotes part of the press release from co-owner Ted Nakato, who thanks his customers for their dining and support, but that’s about it. Personally, I wish we knew more.

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