Tacotes, topped with mushrooms braised in adobo, topped with salsa macha, guacachile, rábanos, and onion and cilantro. Photo credit: República
República, a restaurant that offers enjoyment and world-expanding flavors in delicious regional Mexican cooking, has garnered high praise from both food media (PoMo’s Restaurant of the Year 2021, PDX Eater’s Best New Restaurant 2021, 2022 James Beard Award Semifinalist as Best New Restaurant) and eaters in Portland. They show us that there is much to experience from a country that is often thought of in the U.S. as simply the home of margaritas, burritos, tacos—and, if you’re getting fancy, tres leches cake (these are all delicious, but are a fraction of what Mexico has to offer as far as food goes). I personally think it’s very important and meaningful to highlight the regional tastes of our neighbor to the south, and I’m glad República is doing just that.
I remember when I started to understand that Mexico has regional cooking within its borders. Whispers of that fact came first to me when I started to learn about moles, which are not just from one state, not just made one way, and they embrace certain flavors and textures depending on where you are in the country. I learned more about regional differences when I moved from California to NYC via the taco; I also got a chance to eat tlacoyos in NYC, which I had never encountered in CA.
Anyway, I’m writing this post in part to help me understand the different elements of the República world—the restaurant itself, associated businesses, and the new projects it has spawned. I hope it helps you, too. I welcome emails and comments on this post if you have additional details to share.
República
República’s early concept was to be “a talent incubator.” It remains that, and more. Portland Monthly spelled out the OGs at República back then:
“Medina recruited two like-minded co-owners, chef Lauro Romero and pastry chef Olivia Bartruff. Together, they hand-selected some of the best talent in the city. Doña Chapis makes tortillas and handles prep work, Roberto Torres crafts menudo and pozole, and Adriana Alvarez showcases mezcals and tequilas.”
The restaurant itself appears to have two elements to it, currently: a Chef’s tasting menu and Platos Rojos, which is an “a la carte menu of homestyle Mexican food.” While Platos Rojos is walk-in, you must make a reservation for the tasting menu. Michael Zusman at Willamette Week recently had a chance to enjoy the tasting menu (March 2022) and proclaims at the end, “But in a town that too easily settles for simple, safe culinary standards, República is revolutionary. It is worth a visit now.”
You can see the menu for the Platos Rojos dishes, here, and that is open from 9am to 3pm daily. The Chef’s tasting menu is available each day from 5pm to 9pm.
República
721 NW 9th Avenue, Portland (Entry from parking lot on 10th)
Instagram
La Perlita
La Perlita and República, at least early on, were often talked about together, in part because La Perlita’s founder, Angel Medina, was also involved with República from the start. The cafe features Reforma Roasters coffee, also founded by Angel Medina.
La Perlita has been in the Ecotrust building not far from República, which has helped with the relationship of the two businesses. However, very soon it seems they will be moving to the Archvito space on the east side of town (see below), open for business there in the daytime, with the mezcal-oriented spot operating there at night.
La Perlita
721 NW 9th Avenue, Portland (for now, April 2022; entry from parking lot on 10th)
Instagram
Matutina
Matutina bakes the empanadas, conchas, bolillos, and other pastries you see at República, La Perlita, and Esperanza Trading Co. (see below). It is run by Olivia Bartruff, a pastry chef who used to work at Fleur de Lis in the Hollywood District. The pastries are gorgeous and much beloved among their fans.
Matutina
721 NW 9th Avenue, Portland
Instagram
La Fondita
La Fondita is a new project that will be located just a handful of blocks from República. Medina recently posted some details about La Fondita to his Instagram:
“A custom built 18 person community table, to go with the 10 seats at the Doña Chapis counter, along with 8-10 seats at another community table. Welcome to our first inside look at “La Fondita”. This concept is about being in someone’s home, inspired by the success of our beloved ‘Guest at a Mexican Household’ program during the early days of República.
“Sitting next to a group of strangers and being given a limited menu composed of daily specials might sound foreign at first, but if you’ve spent any time living in Mexico, you can find Fonditas inside of mercados or simply outside of someone’s home. Just another very specific nostalgic piece of Mexico brought to you by our incredible team.”
He also mentions, “This project is inspired by the Woman who has taught us so much about masa (corn), the incredible Chef Vargas, better known as Doña Chapis. We will be taking what was our original morning concept at República and expanding on its menu (using gas!).”
According to Medina, they will be moving their entire breakfast and lunch operations to the new location. They had hoped to be open by April, but from what I can tell, that has been delayed. I don’t think it’s going to be too long before they are open, though.
La Fondita
422 NW 8th Avenue, Portland
Archivito
Mezcal lovers should be particularly excited about this new spot, which a Bridgetown Bites tipster says will be in the old Foxy Coffee space at Interstate and Killingsworth in North Portland. As I mentioned above, it will also be home to La Perlita during the day, with Archivito operating at night. Medina posted recently on his Instagram:
“Archivito will be the first true and real home for Mezcal in this city. It will be a place for education and celebration of the spirit and the people that produce it. Not a bar, not a restaurant, not a “mezcaleria” (whatever the fuck that means), just a beautiful place with distilled agave, botanas and cumbias.
“As we wrap up the current build out for ‘La Fondita de Doña Chapis and ‘Taqueria Los Ponchos’ I keep thinking of how different those two concepts are than anything else that exists in this city, very much like what we did when we launched República. We keep saying ‘fuck your traditional concepts’ and push even harder to create something that even most of our own Mexican audience has truly ever experienced.”
They hope to be open by May 6.
Archivito
5610 N Interstate Avenue, Portland
Instagram
Taqueria Los Ponchos #1
This is a República spinoff, “an evening casual Taco joint along the other side of the restaurant.” Medina posted in March, “Tacos Al Pastor and Chelas, is the general idea. We named it Los Ponchos after our young Chef, Alfonso Torres, who has played such a key role in the day to day success of República.” The word “Chelas” makes my miss one of my favorite Astoria restaurants, Chela y Garnacha.
They hope to open by May 6.
Taqueria Los Ponchos #1
721 NW 9th Avenue, Portland
Esperanza Trading Co.
This cafe opened in Woodstock earlier this year. They offer coffee—drip, espresso—and tea, pastries from Matutina, as well as a beautiful space. The neighborhood has welcomed them with open arms.
Esperanza Trading Co.
4229 SE Woodstock Blvd, Portland
Instagram
Entre Compas Brewing Co.
Brewer Nick Herrera is behind Entre Compas Brewing Co., and it is backed by República Hospitality Co. Portland Monthly interviewed Herrera about a year ago; the expected opening is May 2022. Choice quote from the PoMo article:
“Herrera says his background in microbiology and focus on collaboration will drive the beer, as opposed to gimmicky ingredients or expectations based on where something or someone comes from. ‘I want to make really good beer that’s respected in Portland,’ Herrera says. ‘Mexican lagers are going to be around. Mexican beer is going to be around. I don’t need to tap into that market so much. I just want to make real good, high-quality craft microbrews.’
Entre Compas Brewing Co.
Location unknown at the writing of this article, but likely downtown
Instagram
I wish the República folks all the best with their businesses and projects, and am grateful for the interesting food and “shaking up” they’ve done in Portland’s food scene. I look forward to visiting their worlds soon.
Meg Cotner
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