El Sombrero Tapatio: A Family Affair in East Portland

A version of this article about Mama Elvira and El Sombrero Tapatio entitled, “Mama Elvira’ builds loyal following” was printed in the Hollywood Star News in June 2026.

I’ve been eating at El Sombrero Tapatio since I moved to East Portland in 2019. Opened originally in 2002, it’s a mainstay of the restaurant scene in Parkrose. Mama Elvira, the matriarch of the family behind El Sombrero, is the heart and soul of the kitchen, but this restaurant is truly a team effort—relatives and close family friends all contribute to its success. 

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Small Bites: Strawberry Shortcake Malasada, Pride, Nostrana, and More

A strawberry shortcake malasada from Departure.
Strawberry Shortcake Malasada at Departure. Photo credit: Departure.

Late to the party, but no doubt delicious. It’s Strawberry Shortcake Week this week, and while they are not on the original list, Departure has something to share: their Strawberry Shortcake Malasada. It’s got a strawberry li hung mui filling and Thai basil whip inside the yeasted donut-style pastry. This sounds really good and is gorgeous to behold. 525 SW Morrison Street, 15th Floor, Portland

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Bon Temps Poulet Will Open at Gorges Beer Co. in Portland

Rotisserie chickens. Photo credit: Steven Lek via a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license.

Ken Gordon, of Kenny & Zuke’s fame and more recently the person in charge of the deli case at Sheridan Fruit Company (RIP), has a new project ready to go next week: Bon Temps Poulet. Presumably a riff on the famous phrase, “[Laissez les] bon temps rouler,” they will offer rotisserie chicken and roasted potatoes. According to a post on social media it will start Wednesday, June 10 at Gorges Beer Co. in Southeast Portland.

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Small Bites: Thien Hong, Phin Ca Phe, Coffee, and More

Not Thien Hong, but gelato from Pinolo.
Cantucci e Vinsanto gelato (top) + Fioritura sorbetto (bottom) from Pinolo Gelato.

Looks like renovations may come to Thien Hong. Currently under review, the relevant permit with the city includes tenant improvements, “to remodel existing restaurant dining area with new layout, partitions, conveyor belt system, food prep counter, and reception desk; no changes to building envelope or glazing.” 6749 NE Sandy Blvd, Portland

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Tonga Room and The Heights in Portland: Some Background

Future home of Tonga Room.
Photo credit: Google.

A liquor license application for something called Tonga Room appeared online in early May, and with a name like that I could not resist looking into it. I’ve reached out to Mike Collman, the person behind Tonga Room, but am still waiting to hear back. But there is a lot going on as far as “the rest of the story” and background that’s worth writing about. Think of this as Part 1 of the story.

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