Bridgetown Travel Bites: Astoria, Queens

The Hellgate Bridge in Astoria, Queens. — The magnificent Hellgate Bridge.

As I mentioned in the Welcome to Bridgetown Bites post, I lived many years and started my food writing career in Astoria, Queens. By the way, the neighborhood is home to two magnificent bridges—the Hell Gate Bridge (above) and the Triboro Bridge—intersecting the waterfront at Astoria Park (I find similarities between the St. John’s Bridge at Cathedral Park in Portland and the Triboro Bridge in Astoria Park).

Those of you who know me are aware that I spent the whole of my life in Astoria in the Ditmars area, where this bridge is located. I think it’s apt that this website uses the word “Bridgetown” in it.

One of the first Greek foods I had when I moved to Astoria was a gyro, but the cookies I remember best from my time in Astoria were melomakarona–sweet, earthy, nutty. Ironically, some of the best were from an Italian bakery called Rose & Joe’s. I’ve had the ones from Artopolis (RIP), too, and they are excellent. I think when it cools down here in Portland I’ll try to make them myself.

And former Astoria restauranteur Michael Psilakis is right about octopus being the “chicken of the Greek restaurant.” It’s on every menu at the local tavernas, and consequentially locals have virtually no tolerance for badly prepared octopus (while I’m no longer a local, I do not have much interest in eating poorly cooked octopus anywhere).

His MP Taverna made one of my favorite versions in the neighborhood—it’s tender and meaty with a tasty external char (tentacle tips are often crispy), and I love the chickpea salad and yogurt bed he used to support the octopus. I always ordered it when I would dine there (along with the dumplings with lamb sausage).

Not far is Taverna Kyclades—they make a much simpler version (cooked on the grill and served with olive oil and lemon), and it’s also very good.

Here’s to finding good Greek food in Portland. As I update this in 2024, my hopes are on Tréla.

Updated October 27, 2024.