Over the weekend I learned about the closing of Pho Gabo via an article in Willamette Week. This modest, unassuming-looking Vietnamese restaurant has been there for the past six and a half years; the location has been home to restaurants serving Asian food for over 30 years. It’s a beloved spot in Roseway (a neighborhood restaurant, you might say), and there is much dismay among many neighbors.
The Story
Essentially, somebody—“a persistent neighbor with olfactory sensitivities”—complained about the smell of the food being cooked at Pho Gabo (7330 NE Fremont). Apparently, this mystery person “can’t stand the smell of the grill and the meat,” according to Eddie Dong, Pho Gabo’s owner.
A city inspector was assigned to the case, who made a dozen site visits to the restaurant over the course of 18 months. That’s like one visit every six weeks. Who knew city inspectors had that much time to devote to one case. Apparently, during one of his visits he wrote, “The odors detected smell like a wok dish.” No kidding, I would have never guessed, she said, rolling her eyes.
The complaining individual was putting constant pressure on the city, there were fines racking up (the city threatened to double them every month—harsh), and the costs for upgrading the filtration system proved too much for Dong and the restaurant, so he had to close. Customers are not happy; the landlord, Scott Everist is not happy—“Eddie’s been a really good tenant here, and I’m really kind of sad about this thing,” he says. Looks like when it’s all over, the property will likely be put on the market for sale (Everist’s siblings want to sell).
Analysis and Opinion
As you can imagine, there are a variety of responses to the situation. They involve gentrification, vegetarianism, race, and NIMBYism; and there are voices sympathetic to the complainant’s POV.
The key that opened all this is Portland city code about odors. Could it be this one: 8.36.040 Noisome Odors or Vapors. It ends with, “No person shall burn upon any premises or in any street, alley or other place, any animal or vegetable substance which shall create an offensive or noxious odor.” The permit/complaint is in Portland Maps, dated 9/30/22: “Complaint received. Cooking odors being exhausted. Trackit 2238707.”
As you can imagine, folks are curious about the identity of the mystery complainant, who goes by “COM” in the WW article. Speculation about them includes that they are a vegetarian, new to the neighborhood, racist, and/or a developer. The developer assertion is intriguing.
I, as an eater and someone who believes in the importance of immigrant businesses in our city, am sorry to see Pho Gabo be driven out of the neighborhood like that. As Switch says in The Matrix, “Not like this. Not like this.” I don’t know what was going through COM’s mind when they complained to the city, but it really sucks that they put this unfortunate process into motion.
And what about all that time and energy the city inspector devoted to this? It seems outsized compared to a lot of things. One person can pressure a city bureau and close down an immigrant business, but multiple people try to work with the city on something like street takeovers in the summer and these destructive events—which produce “noisome odors and vapors” from the burning rubber—continue. I can think of other smelly, destructive things that the city does not put time and effort into. And are they going to shut down coffee roasters, beer brewers, and bakeries if certain individuals complain about the smell?
I welcome hearing from you about this turn of events regarding Pho Gabo. Feel free to leave a comment or shoot me an email—I’m open to messages that both agree and disagree with me, and who provide additional insight into the situation.
Portland Location of Pho Gabo Closes After 18-Month Battle With Neighbor [Willamette Week]
Updated March 1, 2024.
Meg Cotner
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Oh, I guess we should get rid of all Burger Kings too. Talk about noxious odors! ( the one near 7th and Broadway for example).
This is really sad news. I live in Rose City Park and smell ribs, teriyaki, chilies and coffee being roasted, pho broth simmering, and weed—lots and often. It’s the tapestry of my neighborhood, our city, and the collective gifts that both small businesses and immigrants share with all of us.
It feels so small to complain with such vigor and focus about a business that benefits so many. RIP Pho Gabo.
25 clapping emojis for this take: “And what about all that time and energy the city inspector devoted to this? … One person can pressure a city bureau and close down an immigrant business, but multiple people try to work with the city on something like street takeovers …—which produce “noisome odors and vapors” from the burning rubber—continue.”
Every village has an idiot, maybe COM is this one. Predictable.
But focusing on the village idiot is part of our problem.
The bigger problem is the energy that validates and amplifies the village idiot, rather than protecting the entity actually benefiting the village.
Will the City of Portland ever receive the message that they have about 453,678 more pressing issues than a small business making delicious food that offends one neighbor’s (biased?) sensibilities?
And remember, the City of Portland is spending 18 months of your tax dollars going after this restaurant today. MANY other restaurants make smells. Chances are, your favorite restaurant(s) make(s) an occasional smell, too. Wait until all the rest of the developers, competitors, vegans, anti-capitalists, and anarchists understand that this is a way to occupy/distract the city, and drive (some) restaurants away.
Soon we’ll be missing that super-offensive wok smell, and instead enjoying the smell of more burning diesel fuel… from a new wave of businesses (restaurants) packing up and leaving Portland.