Farewell, Cooperativa - Bridgetown Bites

The excellent Roman-style pizza slices at Cooperativa. Photo credit: Cooperativa

The news of Cooperativa’s closing has made the rounds in local food media this week, and said news remains an unfortunate reality. Cooperativa was—IS—an important part of the new-ish Italian market scene here in Portland, and it’s departure will leave a big hole in the city’s food scene. This is their final week; they close Saturday, September 3.

It’s Time to Say Goodbye

In their Instagram goodbye-post it seems they left a bit of an opening for a potential return someday: “Our doors will officially close on September 3rd, but know that the next time you see the name Cooperativa, though it may not look the same, it will always be a labor of love.” This week, not only will you get to enjoy the prepared food they make, and buy retail items, but their “hope is to sell everything in house by the end of the week”; they also encourage you to tip generously in appreciation of the staff that has work so hard.

They’d prefer that we celebrate Cooperativa this week, and I am happy to do that, but real talk: it’s hard to tamp down what a bummer this is. While we still work to get a hold on COVID and get past the intensity of the pandemic, the fallout is real, even if it’s just perceived.

And with that fight during the pandemic comes fatigue, and the folks behind Cooperativa acknowledge that along with the appreciation they felt during their time in business: “Despite the challenges, we have also experienced great joy, great passion, great craft, great friends, great memories. It’s complex, we are tired. We need to tend to ourselves and our loved ones (and nap) before we can see where Cooperativa lives on.” Read their full statement on Instagram.

Cooperativa’s Origins

Cooperativa was opened by chefs Sarah Schafer and Anna Caporael, alumni of Irving Street Kitchen, in September 2020. This 5,000 square foot space is located on the ground floor of the Tanner Point building in The Pearl. There, you could find freshly-made pasta, Roman-style pizza, a retail market with pantry goods and fresh produce, gelato, and a bar. Its concept reminded me a lot of Eataly, though quite a bit smaller (those places are huge; I used to go to the one near Madison Square Park in NYC and often felt overwhelming). Cooperativa pivoted during the pandemic, as their offerings seemed well-suited for takeout/take-away. Perhaps it wasn’t enough.

Accessing Italian Imports in Portland

And now there are three … three markets left that were featured in this useful Portland Monthly article from 2020 on Italian markets that had recently (at that time) opened in the city. Along with Cooperativa, they included Bella’s Italian Bakery and Market in Lents; Sebastiano’s in Montavilla (now with more olive oil!); and Montelupo in Kerns. Another spot will be opening soon, too, Vinncenzo’s Pizza in Rose City Park/Hollywood this year, which will include an Italian import shop.

And I’m also a fan of Providore, which has an amazing selection of all sorts of delicious things, including many Italian options. Wellspent Market, originally known as Real Good Food, is still up and running; they used to provide Cooperativa with some of their imported products. Luce also has some Italian import items for sale, and Amalfi’s has a Mercato, too.

I guess this is all to say that despite Cooperativa’s departure, access to Italian foodstuffs is alive and well in this town. However, I look forward to seeing what might become of Cooperativa in the future. Catering company? Partnering with a farm? Opening a small takeout pizza window somewhere in east Portland? I can dream.

Best of luck to all the people who made Cooperativa such a great place to shop and eat. I wish you all the best and for good things to come for you. And remember, everyone—they’re here til Saturday, so stop in and pick up some wonderful things to eat and give thanks for what has been a vibrant part of the Portland food world.

Cooperativa [closing September 2022]
1250 NW Ninth Avenue #100, Portland
cooperativapdx.com | Instagram