Fancy Baby Will Bring "The Craziest Champagne List" to NW Portland

Thanks to a Bridgetown Bites tipster, I’ve learned that new wine and Japanese-inspired listening bar called Fancy Baby is going to open in the Pearl District. This location on NW Glisan used to be home to CULT, a store that sold art, collectibles, ephemera, and more.

William Oben, the Man Behind Fancy Baby

I reached out to William Oben, the founder of Fancy Baby, but have not heard back from him. UPDATE 10/25/24: I have not heard from Oben but Sprudge co-founder Jordan Michelman spoke with him at a friends and family event and contributed to PoMo with what he learned).

Here is what I know from initial research. Oben is and has been involved with a number of wine-focused businesses in Portland, including Cru & Domaine (a curated wine shop and online store), OWC Fine Wine Distribution (wine distributors), Park Avenue Fine Wines (wine store and bar, now closed), Proof Wine & Spirits (a store selling wine, beer, and spirits), all based in Portland’s west side.

Oben and his team describe Fancy Baby (the name is a nickname for him from a family member) further with their intentions for the place: “We are a destination for those who appreciate the finer things in life: a perfect blend of world-class Champagne, a diverse and well-curated wine program, and curated music that sets the mood.” A recent job listing mentions preferences for their GM (who has been hired) are to have a “deep love and knowledge of wine, especially Champagne, paired with a strong background in hospitality management.” Financial acumen is also desirable for the position.

Oben is originally from Puerto Rico and studied at Le Cordon Bleu’s Western Culinary Institute starting in 2003. He was the wine director at Andina, which happens to be just a block away from Fancy Baby. Over a decade ago he launched the run company 7 Sirens, here in Oregon (though the rum itself was made in Trinidad). Cru & Domaine, mentioned above, is a place where he focuses on specialty and rare wines in a retail environment.

What Is a Listening Bar?

I think it’s kind of obvious what a listening bar is—a bar where you listen to music. But most bars have music, so what makes this different?

According to multiple sources, listening bars are often referred to as “HiFi bars” in the U.S. and they were inspired by the Japanese coffee houses called “kissaten” and jazz kissas (Japanese bars dedicated to listening to jazz recordings). SoSound, a music curation company that helps brands develop their unique sound, writes about the Japanese-style listening bar:

“The original idea is simple: talk less, listen more. The sound is given first priority, not the floor plan nor what’s on the menu. Acoustics of the space are designed in such a way that one can fully appreciate the music that’s playing. It’s a great way to experience music; not only are the picks usually playing from vinyl but the sound system is optimized to hear details we otherwise couldn’t get at a regular venue.

“What characteristics define a listening bar? Speakers tend to have a revealing sound quality for everyone in attendance. The general vibe amounts to an atmosphere that supports enjoyment and relaxation, rather than one of coffee-fueled productivity or a night club. Owners sought to do something they’re passionate about and tend to be collectors of records with a deeper appreciation for the technology behind great sounding music. It’s a unique place that provides a means to relax, concentrate on the music, and come together as a community.”

7×7 wrote and article last year about the rise in Japanese-style listening bars in the Bay Area, too.

Designing Fancy Baby

Oben is working with the studio Each Other to design the space. This two-person company has worked with a number of places in Portland—truly, significant businesses—that you’d recognize from our food scene: Yaowarat and the Ranch Pizza/LORO Coffee shop, both located in Montavilla; Phuket Cafe, Paadee and Langbaan; Zula; Gabbiano’s; and more.

To get an idea of what has inspired the space’s vibe, this Pinterest board gives insight: moody, dark, chill, and a perfect place to spend some time intently listening to music with a drink in your hand. And plenty of vinyl.

Here a couple of snaps my tipster sent me of the work-in-progress interior:

Interior construction at Fancy Baby, a wine and Japanese-inspired listening bar opening in Portland's Pearl District.

More construction at Fancy Baby, a wine and Japanese-inspired listening bar opening in Portland's Pearl District.

Michelman reports: that they have “curated a vision of a dreamy European bar: swooping bartop, generous banquettes, British racing green on the walls, and cozy two-tops painted with light pouring through enormous fishbowl windows.” Below is an updated photo from Fancy Baby’s Instagram.

Drinking and Eating at Fancy Baby

Sommelier Katie Sombat will be the GM. Alex Fogal (Langbaan) is behind the menu: Think fried chicken with optional caviar, chips, small bites. Like with Pleasure Mountain and Parallel, the food will complement the drinks.

As for drinks, I am completely confident that the drink menu will be pretty interesting, knowing Oben’s background with wine and spirits. And PoMo fleshes things out: 10 wines by the glass ($14 to$16), rare wines, a bottle list of 400 to 600, to start.

I’m hopeful to hear back from William Oben to directly learn more about Fancy Baby, and will pass them anything I learn, here. For now, I’ll look forward to seeing this place open in the Pearl. And if you want to check out a listening bar that’s already up and running, stop by Sonder in the Hollywood District. Decibel in Milwaukie is another option.

Fancy Baby [projected opening early November]
1204 NW Glisan Street, Portland
Fancy Baby website | Instagram

Updated October 25, 2024.