When I see an Oriental Chop Chop or a Secret Asian Man, I feel … weary. Because the language of the Asian salad is revealing of the dangers of bland, disembodied generalization: When you fail to see countries and cultures as discrete entities, what kind of consideration could you be expected to give to individual people?
–Bonnie Tsui, author of the essay, Why Is Asian Salad Still on the Menu?
The other night in Portland I ate a downright delicious thing called the Crispy Korean Fried Chicken Sandwich. Along with the pleasantly moist chicken with a crackly crust, the condiments hit all my favorite notes—creamy, tangy, savory, spicy—and the bun held the sandwich together without getting in the way of its filling. In the sandwich’s menu description there was a list of elements and they included, among other things, “Asian-style coleslaw.” What?
This afternoon I heard the news of the Big’s Chicken fire, and my heart sank. I’ve been meaning to stop by, telling myself, “Oh, I’ll get around to it soon.” Obviously I’ll have to wait to try their food, but my slight inconvenience is nothing compared to what Ben Dyer, co-owner of Big’s, is forced to deal with.
As I mentioned in the Welcome to Bridgetown Bites post, I lived many years and started my food writing career in Astoria, Queens. By the way, the neighborhood is home to two magnificent bridges—the Hell Gate Bridge (above) and the Triboro Bridge—intersecting the waterfront at Astoria Park (I find similarities between the St. John’s Bridge at Cathedral Park in Portland and the Triboro Bridge in Astoria Park).
Those of you who know me are aware that I spent the whole of my life in Astoria in the Ditmars area, where this bridge is located. I think it’s apt that this website uses the word “Bridgetown” in it.
One of the first Greek foods I had when I moved to Astoria was a gyro, but the cookies I remember best from my time in Astoria were melomakarona–sweet, earthy, nutty. Ironically, some of the best were from an Italian bakery called Rose & Joe’s. I’ve had the ones from Artopolis (RIP), too, and they are excellent. I think when it cools down here in Portland I’ll try to make them myself.
And former Astoria restauranteur Michael Psilakis is right about octopus being the “chicken of the Greek restaurant.” It’s on every menu at the local tavernas, and consequentially locals have virtually no tolerance for badly prepared octopus (while I’m no longer a local, I do not have much interest in eating poorly cooked octopus anywhere).
His MP Taverna made one of my favorite versions in the neighborhood—it’s tender and meaty with a tasty external char (tentacle tips are often crispy), and I love the chickpea salad and yogurt bed he used to support the octopus. I always ordered it when I would dine there (along with the dumplings with lamb sausage).
Not far is Taverna Kyclades—they make a much simpler version (cooked on the grill and served with olive oil and lemon), and it’s also very good.
Here’s to finding good Greek food in Portland. As I update this in 2024, my hopes are on Tréla.
One Kusshi oyster from Puget Sound, sitting atop a bed of rock salt studded with whole spices, accompanied by a ponzu mignonette, chives, and a microgreen. It was plump and meaty, and tasted almost sweet. My favorite oyster to date.
Pono Soul Farm Kitchen, I’ll Miss You.
On June 23 I read the news that one of my neighborhood restaurants, Pono Soul Farm Kitchen, will close on July 8, 2017. I’ve read three reports on the impending shuttering—from Eater, The Oregonian, and Portland Food and Drink—and none of them indicate the reasons why, not even a touch of speculation. Eater quotes part of the press release from co-owner Ted Nakato, who thanks his customers for their dining and support, but that’s about it. Personally, I wish we knew more.
